Koh Phangan is one of our community’s favourite places… Many of our friends and neighbours migrate between here and Goa and we are excite to share with you our top tips for things to do on Koh Phangnan.
This is maybe one of the only places where you may be asked are you sunrise or sunset?
The vibe of the island is quite different whether you are sunrise (obviously East coast) or sunset side… The main town Haad Rin nestles in the Southeast corner and has the infamous Full Moon parties where revellers boat, bike and hike in from across the island.
However, beyond the big parties that make it a little crazy for a couple of days each lunar month, you can venture over to the Western sunset side or the stunning beaches in the North to find idyllic snorkelling, yoga retreats and chic places to gather for sundowners. There’s a barefoot magic to Koh Phangan which we fell in love with … quiet spots like Bottle Beach or a chance to dance outside on the rocks at Bambu in Haad Yuan…
Where to Stay in Koh Phangnan
Finding Zen
Across the island you can find basic beach huts and boutique villas… close to Zen Beach and Hin Kong on the sunset side of the island, we like the simple and brilliantly named Castaway Beach Resort and the lovely Amaya Boutique Resort (find both on booking.com). If you are seeking a little more jungle chic with artwork dotted through the grounds check out Alcove for a spot in paradise for your stay.
Haad Yuan
Once upon a time and way back when, friend of FARA, @viriam_yoga, found herself in a little cabin which hugged the rocks above the stunning bay of Haad Yuan. It had quite possibly one of the most beautiful restaurants with delicious Thai dishes and food from around the world. It imprinted in the memory and continues to inspire. Head to Bambu Huts for epic views – 95% of the time it’s laidback chill, but on Sundays the volume is turned up for a party on the rocks (see below).
Anantara Rasananda – Thong Nai Pan Noi
In Koh Phangan, you mostly find pretty cabins and simple barefoot vibes –but Thong Nai Pan in the North-East has a handful of beautiful five stars including the stunning Anantara Rasananda. Most have private plunge pools, epic views and Thong Nai Pan Noi is one of those special picture perfect beaches – with perfect white sand…turquoise waters
Coconut Beach Bungalows – Haad Khom Beach
Beautiful white-washed wooden beach villas on stilts – with epic views. There’s a small shady beach dipping into almost impossibly crystal clear water naturally making it one of the best places for snorkelling on the island. Depending on your pace, you can take the hiking trail to the beautiful Bottle Beach – it will take you between an hour and two.
Where to Eat in Koh Phangnan
Our muse and dear friend @alisa.belochkina and her partner Andrey have made Koh Phangan their home and so we got them to recommend their favourite places and hidden gems… “We are really loving Alcove – it’s a French bistro with amazing food and we are seafood lovers – so there is abundant seafood both French and Thai style. It’s really friendly. And sometimes they have weekend shows”.
You can find Alcove on Hin Kong beach – just South of the lovely Zen Beach, so also sunset side… Alisa and Andrey’s other favourite spots are also in Hin Kong Beach – Indigo and Happiness – “We love brunches – I recommend Indigo – lots of dishes and great aromatic coffee. But our hidden gem is Happiness – it’s super local Thai food restaurant right on the beach – freshest seafood possible.” Try local crab, thai-spiced prawns and somtam (papaya salad).
Sand and Tan – Haad Rin
Our Goa neighbours Jill and Rahul loved the modern tropical design of Sand and Tan. Spilling onto the white sand at Koh Phangan’s busiest beach Haad Rin, there’s an endless delicious breakfast buffet, classic Thai and cocktails – Rahul says try the poke bowl.
Our favourite places in the North around Chaloklum…
Chaloklum is an old fishing village with a lovely pier..it feels like you have stepped back in time! Try Sabaii Dee for amazing sea food right on the beach – Sabai means ‘take it easy’ or ‘chill’. For something more upmarket you can visit the delicious Beach Garden where you can try Barracuda carpaccio, super fresh sashimi and sushi, French tastes and classic Thai curries.
Street Food
For the ultimate Thai experience, head to the Walking Street Market every Saturday in Thong Sala – you’ll find Thai delights, spices and every food imaginable cooked over a charcoal burner. We love the thai style fish cakes and chili sauce.
What to do in Koh Phangnan
Earth-Water-Fire-Air-Spirit
Earth – Hiking
There are jungle hiking trails and walks interlacing the hills and cliffs of Koh Phangan. You can venture to find hidden beaches or there’s a really beautiful Phaeng Noi Waterfalls loop – which is directly inland from Hin Kong Beach, but pretty much in the middle of the island.
Water – Snorkelling
Take a boat out to Koh Ma – a little island off the north shore. The crystal waters are a lens on the coral of all colours and fish of all sizes… get deeper and you can see blue spotted rays and barracuda. Naturally, Koh Phangan is also a great place to dive and there are lots of dive places dotted around the island. Be reverential of the coral and sealife and dive responsibly with Haad Yao Divers. They are the longest running dive centre in Koh Phangan and part of Green Fins Thailand which have programmes monitoring coral reefs – Also check out the work of Core Sea, a marine research and conservation organisation.
Fire – Sunsets
Immerse yourself at Zen Beach in the flame orange sunset vibes… Alisa and family love sunsets “we usually go to Zen beach where people gather to sing, dance, there’s yoga and acro-yoga and on Friday they make a drum jam.”
Air – Herbal Steam
This is one of Viriam’s favourite wellness treats and in Thailand, beyond the amazing thai massage, is the herbal steam rooms. There is a beautiful steam room in a cave at Anantara Rasananda – but you can experience it at the simple and more traditional Baan Thai Sauna or for a more Koh Phangan-style experience head to the North, inland of Chaloklum Beach, where you will find a beautiful herbal steam room as well as sound healing and fire meditation at The Dome.
Spirit – Dance
Full Moon parties are infamous in Koh Phangan – but you can find smaller gatherings with great music… head to Bambu Huts in Haad Yuan – friend of FARA @djumasoundsystem played a happy Afro House Sunday set on the rocks there earlier this year – so there are International DJs as well as a local music scene. For low-key vibes and natural rhythms head to Zen beach for sunsets where Alisa
recommends heading to Wai Nam Beach in the East of the island – for barefoot dance parties. You can take a boat or it’s a beautiful 1 hour 30 minute trek through the jungle to reach.
